How to Wash, Dry & Store Cashmere Sweaters Safely

Rust cashmere crew neck sweater folded in a Bespoke Cashmere zip garment bag — MITONY Bespoke Cashmere Atelier

A custom-knitted 100% Inner Mongolian cashmere or extra fine merino wool sweater is engineered to last a decade or more—provided it is protected from the three enemies of natural knitwear: heat, agitation, and gravity while wet. Contrary to popular myth, pure cashmere actually becomes softer and loftier with gentle cold water washing over time, outperforming repeated chemical dry cleaning.

Below is the exact five-step garment care protocol recommended by the finishing technicians at the MITONY Bespoke Cashmere.

Care Matrix by Yarn Family: Cashmere vs. Merino vs. Tencel Silk

Before washing, verify the yarn composition of your sweater using the quick-reference care table below:

Care Step	100% Cashmere & 80/20 Cashmere-Wool	100% Extra Fine Merino Wool	90% Tencel / 10% Mulberry Silk
Recommended Wash Method	Cold hand wash (or professional dry clean)	Cold hand wash or cold Wool cycle in mesh bag	Cold hand wash only (protect delicate silk filaments)
Max Water Temperature	≤ 30°C (85°F) — lukewarm/cold only	≤ 30°C (85°F) — cold water	≤ 30°C (85°F) — cold water
Detergent Type	pH-neutral cashmere/wool shampoo (no bleach/enzymes)	Mild wool detergent (no fabric softener)	Mild silk/delicate detergent (neutral pH)
Drying Method	Roll in towel, reshape & dry flat in shade	Roll in towel, reshape & dry flat in shade	Press gently in towel & dry flat away from sunlight
Tumble Dryer / Hanging	Strictly prohibited (causes felting/stretching)	Strictly prohibited	Strictly prohibited

Breathable Storage & Packaging for Washed Cashmere and Extra Fine Merino Knitwear

Shape Retention of Hand-Washed 2-Ply Cashmere After Flat Drying

Step-by-Step Hand-Washing Protocol

Step 1: Dissolve Detergent in Cold Water & Turn Inside Out

Fill a clean basin or sink with cold or barely tepid water (never exceeding 30°C / 85°F). Add one capful of pH-neutral cashmere or wool wash and swirl to dissolve. Turn your sweater inside out (buttoning or zipping any cardigans closed) to protect the outer face from friction.

Step 2: Submerge & Gently Press for 10 Minutes

Submerge the garment and gently press it down so water penetrates the yarn fibres. Let it soak for 8 to 10 minutes. Never rub, scrub, or twist the wet fabric—wet wool scales open up and will interlock (felt and shrink) if subjected to friction or sudden temperature changes between wash and rinse water.

Step 3: Cold Rinse & The Towel-Roll Technique

Drain the soapy water and refill the basin with clean cold water of the exact same temperature. Gently press the sweater up and down until no suds remain. Lift the sweater out supported as a ball in both hands (never lift a heavy wet sweater by the shoulders!). Lay it flat on a clean white bath towel, roll the towel up like a Swiss roll, and press down gently with your palms to absorb 70% of the moisture.

Step 4: Block & Dry Flat Away from Heat

Unroll the towel and transfer the sweater onto a dry towel or mesh drying rack in a well-ventilated room away from direct sunlight and radiators. Smooth the front, back, cuffs, and collar back to their original custom measurements (this is called blocking). Allow 24 to 36 hours to dry completely.

De-Pilling, Steaming & Off-Season Storage

Steaming Instead of Ironing: Never press a hot metal iron directly onto knitwear, which flattens natural loft and leaves shiny scorch marks. Use a handheld garment steamer held 2 cm away from the fabric to relax wrinkles instantly.
Gentle De-Pilling: After the first 3 to 5 wears, use a manual cashmere comb on high-friction zones (underarms and cuffs). Once loose short surface fibres are combed away, pilling diminishes markedly over the life of a long-staple cashmere sweater.
Fold, Never Hang: Even dry knitwear will stretch at the shoulder peaks if left on coat hangers. Fold your sweaters neatly in drawers or breathable cotton storage bags with natural cedar blocks during warmer months.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I wash a 100% cashmere sweater?

Wash a 100% cashmere sweater after every 4 to 6 wears, or at the end of the season before storing. Because cashmere fibres naturally resist odours, airing the garment flat for 24 hours between wears allows the fibres to recover elasticity without over-washing.

Why does cashmere pill initially, and how do I remove pills safely?

Light surface pilling during the first few wears is caused by shorter loose fibres working their way to the surface under friction (such as under the arms or against a bag strap). Lay the dry sweater flat and glide a manual cashmere comb or fabric shaver gently in one direction—never pull pills off by hand.

Can I wash extra fine merino wool in a washing machine?

Hand washing in cold water is always gentlest, but MITONY's 100% Extra Fine Merino Wool sweaters can also be washed inside-out in a fine-mesh laundry bag on a dedicated Cold Wool / Hand-Wash cycle (max 30°C, low spin ≤400 RPM) using neutral wool detergent, then laid flat to dry.

How do I prevent clothes moths from damaging cashmere in summer storage?

Always wash sweaters before storing—moth larvae are attracted to invisible traces of skin oils, sweat, and food proteins even on garments that look clean. Once bone-dry, fold and seal knitwear inside breathable cotton garment bags or airtight storage boxes with natural cedar blocks.